Japanese nobility started wearing kimonos in the 7th century. Prior to this they always wore short tunics and full pants which was the apparel of the everyday Japanese person. Today, most Japanese people wear clothes like the Western world, with kimonos reserved for certain ceremonies and celebrations such as weddings. Let's will look at how the kimono evolved over the years and other apparel that is worn by Japanese people.
Japanese apparel has changed over time.
- Early on, Japanese people wore loose fitting trousers and a tunic or jacket.
- The nobility of Japan started wearing kimonos in the 7th century. The kimono was adopted from the Chinese, and used for wearing in court.
Japanese Men and Court Dress
From the 8th century to the 12th century, court dress became very elaborate, with certain colors and designs indicating rank.
- Men would fasten their dark kimonos on the right.
- Their kimonos had long, wide sleeves, fancy girdles and pants that were full and gathered at the ankles (hakamas). The sleeves and hakamas had cords so they could be shortened to allow freedom of movement.
- Samurai and noblemen sometimes wore a kamishimo over their kimonos which could be easily taken off to get ready for combat. These were stiff jumper-like garments without sleeves. They had pleats and exaggerated shoulders.
- Men’s heads were shaved and they wore black lacquered silk hats.
Japanese Women
Japanese women from the 9th to the 12th centuries wore 12 or more layers of kimonos that were very wide and flowing.
- The many layers of kimonos were tied at the waist with an obi, which is like a narrow sash.
- Over the kimono would be a red hakama, which reached down to the ankles.
- Hair was left long and loose, with extensions sometimes being added for length.
Men and women took care when getting dressed to harmonize the silks according to the season or a poem.
Kimonos of Recent Times
From the 17th to the 19th centuries, Japanese dress became much simpler and Japanese apparel changed.
- Men and women both wore long kimonos made of six wide strips of cloth loosely sewn together. It had sleeves that had a portion of them sewn together so they could be used as pockets. There was a roll collar and a V-neck that closed on the right.
- Women had an under kimono with petticoats and men had an under kimono with a shirt and loincloth. The kimonos were held in place with a wide obi sash.
- Kimonos were made of cotton or silk and were often richly embroidered or printed.
- Outer wear was a haori, which was a knee length black silk coat with the family crest on it in white.
- Footwear was white cotton socks that had a separate chamber for the big toe, and sandals or clogs.
- Women’s hair was shaped into ornate designs and decorated with flowers, pins, or combs.
- For the peasants, cotton pants, white loincloths, and short coats were the standard attire.
- The coats had a design with white paint that showed the person’s occupation.
- All peasants wore straw raincoats, straw hats, and sandals.
Starting in the 20th century, urban Japanese people started to wear clothes such as those worn in the Western parts of the the world. Kimonos are only worn on special occasions. The more rural Japanese continue to wear cotton pants and short coats as working attire.
Putting on a Kimono
Kimono means “something to wear.” Today you will still see kimonos being worn by Japanese at shichi-go-san celebrations, weddings, coming of age parties, tea ceremonies, and when practicing the martial art of kendo.
Putting on a kimono is complicated and the art of it has been passed down from mothers to daughters for centuries. Today, there are schools that teach women the proper technique.
- The first things to go on are the socks.
- Next are the undergarments, a top, and a skirt that wraps around.
- The under kimono is next and is tied with a datemaki belt.
- The kimono is finally slipped on, with the left side going over the right, and it is tied with an obi.
- A little of the under kimono will show inside the collar.
- The neck is considered very sensual and that is why the kimono has a loose collar.
- Sandals complete the outfit.
So, now you know what Japanese people wear and how to wear a kimono if you choose to do so for a special occasion.